A different route to the border

Within half an hour you can be up in the wild landscape behind Cerbère (depending on your walking speed). Today we decided to walk over the border into Spain and find the fresh water lake or barrage that supplies Portbou.
It was a beautiful walk, a little windy as the Tramontane was blowing, but not enough to be a danger, (and it kept us cool).
The Cerbère valley is quite different to that of Portbou, the former being wider and sunnier with vines, olive, wild lavender etc; the latter, more pine trees and less imprint of man.
Before we arrived at the top, I was musing on how people would have decided where the border between the two countries should be; when you look at the terrain on each side and the vegetation difference, it suddenly appears quite obvious how the decision was arrived at.
No animals noted apart from bees, but still a fair amount of wild flowers blooming despite the heat and dryness, and amazingly several blackberry bushes with ripe fruit - I assume their roots must be well down into some underground source.
I saw a weather warning on France Meteo before setting out on the risk of forest fires in the South of France. Standing amongst brittle, bone-dry vegetation I could imagine the speed at which a fire would take hold.
I walked back to Cerbère, and the more intrepid Mark, into PortBou. Next time I will walk to Banyuls along the crest of the hills - not on a windy day . . .

                                          

View back to Cerbère, about half way along to the border point




The barrage above Portbou at its low summer level.

First swims

Actually, the second - I was down a few weeks ago and did swim but it was a bit, arrrggg!

Now (late June) the sea is around 23 degrees in the shallows and perfect for swimming.



                       The town with its 'for the summer' installed floating boat pontoons


                         

                         Wonderfully clear water at the poetically named 'bay of no troubles'

                                       

                           Mark enjoying a very early morning swim in the town's bay

Restaurants and shops

Cerbère is a town of few shops but actually everything you need for everyday, also some great places to eat . . .

   The back of the town with post office, hairdresser, etc

                

                       The bakery

                                   

The paper shop with the 'Eiffel' railway arches behind it




La Coba, restaurant and café perched high on a bluff has a wonderful terrace (in the summer) and a wonderful 'equipe', Jean-Michel and Valerie.

                           

My friend Sue about to enjoy a Jean-Michel creation

La Dorade on the seafront is run by friendly Cerbèrians Ann and Yves who came back to their home town to run the hotel and restaurant that was started by Yves's grandma.

                La Dorade restaurant                 Ann and Yves, les propriétaires.

Le Café de la Plage also serves good food - try their 'pic pic de poisson'. Cerbère also has excellent pizzas at La Caserne as well as several other good snack cafés. All they need now is an eccentric salon de thé - something I'd rather like to do, one day . . .

On a recent trip a friend and I discovered the cool 'Le Bout du Monde' restaurant situated in a cove about two kilometres from Cerbère - a good appetite-building walk, and one you can continue after lunch on to Banyuls and beyond.
Then there's Spain - a nip over the border (see last post) and there's all the pleasure of eating in tapas bars and restaurants in Portbou, Llança, El Port de la Selva, Girona . . .

                         



  Delicious Greek salad at 'Le Bout du Monde' and the view!

A walk over the 'hill' between Cerbère and Port-Bou

I have done this walk/minor climb once with my son, in the winter when we got stranded in Port-Bou (next town - in Spain). Some hardened hikers showed us the way, and magnificent it was, although somewhat cold.
Yesterday, Mark and I did the walk both ways, with a cake and tea stop in between.
To pick up the trail, you walk up the dry river bed/road at the back of Cerbère and follow it all the way, not taking the route through the big tunnel on the right. Keep walking and you pass through a small tunnel and into a curious area at the back of the railway sidings full of old chicken runs and debris . . . not the most picturesque spot but take the small path to your left, marked with a fellow line and walk/clamber up until you reach the white border-point (disused) building.
The route in spring is beautiful; full of wild flowers, gorse and lavender, and if, like me, you have to stop every few minutes due the gradient, the views of the sea, town and station are wonderful.
Cross over the main road (with care as some drivers take the bends a little recklessly) up onto the top of the hill (small mountain?) feel the wind thrashing you if it's a Tramontane day, and walk down across the border into Spain.
This hillside would have once been equally flower and cactus-filled but due to a severe forest fire a few years back most of the ground is just grass covered, although the trees and bushes are beginning to make a come-back, slowly.
If you have remembered a back pack, you can fill it with pots of local honey, olive oil, nougat, etc, enjoy some Tapas/cake/cervezas, have a wander about and either catch the train back across the border or walk.
If you have a bit more time, it is well worth visiting the Walter Benjamin memorial and grave situated in the cemetery above the town.
The walk, without counting the cake stop etc, is about an hour and a half - two hours, depending on your speed/leg length . . .



the Cerbère side



Cerbère station and sidings

                         

                                                                



         



                 Port-Bou side with the Cap de Creus land mass in the distance




        walk back with shopping bag as we forgot the rucksack

                                      

                                       Port-bou honey, olive oil and Turon (nougat)